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Suzanne's Signature Sauces Settles Oily & Sweaty Skin Issues – Part 1 |

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Suzanne’s Signature Sauces Settles Oily & Sweaty Skin Issues – Part 1

By Suzanne Patterson

Oily skin and perspiration are always those pesky little problems to overcome in achieving smooth long-wearing makeup results.  For years, pro makeup artists have searched the world over for the190833B63 perfect prepping and priming products that will calm, clean, and temporarily seal oily and sweaty skin for optimal foundation application and wear.   Now that Spring has warmed up the temperatures, and summer is looming on the horizon with even hotter days ahead, it becomes even more of a challenge to keep excess shine and wetness under control to achieve a balanced complexion – and makeup wear that lasts all day long with minimal touch up.

Over the years I have experimented with all kinds of skin preps, pre-foundation primers and anti-shine products to find the perfect antidote that would kill off or knock out shine and sweat, and e4f1ba19-c4bc-4618-8901-dd0d882dff56.jpg._CB315348698_help keep them under control.   This is an even more critical issue now that my work – as with other film/TV makeup pros – is being captured in UHD 4K and above camera resolution.   Imagine an ultra hyper pixilated close up on a perspiring oily complexion, and viewable on a home 4K TV screen of 85 inches: it’s nothing short of a visual scene distraction and story line interruption!   Eliminating that potential disaster is the driving force for products that will help produce a clean looking and soft matte complexion (like dull satin) that speaks of beautiful natural skin – even in the tightest close-up.  And, you definitely want to avoid the hard edged flat looking finish that can result from overuse with face powder touch-ups too.

Powdering is never a good solution, as it can create an even bigger problem in the effort to repeatedly kill both the surface shine and reflection that results from oil and moisture eruptions.  Instead, those surface blights mix in with a powdered layer, and repeated powder layers caked on makeupeventually turns the makeup into a lifeless mask-like complexion that visually reads as an unnaturally thick and caked on face in camera.  Yes, you do need to maintain the look as cleanly as possible throughout the day’s wear, and with touch-up products and technique that address makeup continuity without build-up.  However, I can honestly tell you that the true secret to managing the excess shine and moisture for smooth makeup continuity and the longest wear is in the pre-foundation preparation products used on bare skin before makeup!  That, and using the right combination of maintenance products and techniques that won’t oxidize or change the color/texture of the makeup, especially during a long period of wear.

So, I am opening my kit here to share with you my ultimate signature sauces that have produced the best results and allows me minimal maintenance throughout the day in order to keep the makeup looking nearly as fresh as the initial application.   But, this also comes with a tried and 13003091true warning: AVOID any skin preps/pre-foundation products for oily skin that contains silicone or silicone derivative ingredients, especially if they are in the first 3 ingredients listed on the label.  Silicone is a heavier than water synthetic oil – a polysiloxane polymer – that reacts in an occlusive manner (non-breathable) on skin.    With oily skins (even combination skins) this occlusion naturally activates the oil glands to produce more activity in the lipid layer in order to clear out the occlusion “obstruction.”  This thermal response can also trigger sweat glands to produce more moisture, especially if you are making up on hot and humid days.  These are natural skin metabolic responses to the offending silicone ingredient, and a key source of makeup disruption: causing the foundation to break apart or migrate off skin.  Once that happens then the makeup is essentially DOA, and it’s back to the makeup room for a complete re-do!

So, KISS (Keep It Simple and Short) is the order of action for me because you don’t have a lot of time to get the makeup on cleanly once you have oily/sweaty skin calmed down.  Here is my go-to routine that works exceptionally well for all skin tones that have oily skin/perspiration issues.  One thing that is first and foremost before I begin applying any products is to make sure my client/talent is provided a small portable personal fan to keep the air moving around their face!  This has helped keep their skin calm and relaxed during the skin prep and makeup process, and fans go a long way in maintenance to keep perspiration at bay on set between takes, especially under hot and humid conditions.

Bare Skin Prep:
First, I clean the skin surface gently with a non-alcohol based skin refresher, that specifically prepremoves the surface cellular waste (dead skin cells) without stripping the skin’s protective lipid barrier.  Not removing this extraneous matter can mix with makeup and cause an ashy looking “halo” result in your application that reads significantly as a skin skew in camera.   What works best for me is Natural Born Cosmetics® Radiance Boots Exfoliating Refresher, because it acts quickly and cleanly without stripping down the skin’s fragile mantle.  I like to use the less manual way – of spraying it on skin and then gently blot off – rather than wipe directly with a saturated cotton ball, as this method helps to keep the skin calmer.   If I am also dealing with a skin type that tends to perspire to the point of continual makeup maintenance, then I apply either Michael Davey’s Sweat Stop, or DRY by Premiere Products, both of which are absolutely great performers.   Let the application dry down completely before moving on to the next step.

Primer/Anti-Shine Application:
In this next step you want to focus more on those labeled anti-shine products rather than just a skin primers.   There is a difference in what these products are formulated to do and how they perform on skin, especially oily skin.  Skin primers (especially water based ones) provide a soft breathable matte sealant to the skin’s surface, and result in a nice texture that has a bit of grab to it for foundation to cling more evenly.   Anti-shines have ingredients in them that not only provide the breathable sealing layer on the skin’s surface, but there are also texturizers that resist oil and moisture breakthrough while providing a durable grip for a foundation application.

So having said that, the best performers I have found for under makeup prep for oily skin is actually a combination of products, to include a hard working fast-acting secret weapon: a mattifying serum that actually bonds with the lipid layer without alerting the oil glands!  Yep, this wonder serum, Natural Born Cosmetics® Shine Free Solution, is definitely “secret sauce” worthy because of its ability to directly bond and work with the lipid layer to effect skin calming changes, not just park and sit on it the way other anti-shines do!  It pretty much goes on all my oily skin clients/talent as the important priming underbase before an anti-shine application, so that I can achieve the smoothest skin “canvas” possible without oil or perspiration interruption during the antihinemakeup application.  I let it dry down completely for a minute or two before I go to the next step.

Once the serum step is complete, I gently stipple (not wipe or stroke) on a thin coat of the anti-shine product very evenly over the serum application, so that layer remains un-disturbed.  My three anti-shine favorites are Natural Born Cosmetics® Liquid Powder Shine Eliminator, Graftobian Anti-Shine Foundation Primer, and Nurturing Force® Blot Out Offensive Shine + Oil Control Cream.   How I choose between them is dependent on the skin’s overall output of oil and moisture, and the ambient temperature/humidity conditions the person will be exposed to for the majority of the time they are wearing the makeup.  Liquid Powder Shine Eliminator has the strongest anti-shine properties, and its ingredients work super well with super oily skin.  Although it dries completely clear on ultra fair to medium dark skin tones with no problem, a minor drawback is that it has a tiny bit of texture feedback on dark to very dark skin tones.   For these skins I would not suggest wearing it alone or under a powder only layer, as it would need to go under a cream or liquid foundation.  Graftobian’s Anti-shine, and Nurturing Force Blot Out Offensive dries clear on all oily skin tones, and provides a very nice, clean and smooth grip surface finish for foundation applications.

In part two of this blog I will go over products and procedure for makeup finishing products for oily skins, and the best products and techniques to maintain them for long wear that will survive scrutiny even the tightest close up on the biggest screen!

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