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Concealers: A Gal's Best Beauty Friend – Part 2 |


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Concealers: A Gal’s Best Beauty Friend – Part 2

127742-283x424-applying-concealerAsk any makeup artist about concealers and they will agree it’s the one beauty product that has powerful capabilities: from hiding to highlighting or providing opaque coverage for a particular problematic skin area.  Concealers have a variety of coverages and textures that can instantly bring alive a tired looking face, visually wash away the effects of too little sleep, stress, or simply refresh the complexion for a cleaner smoother look.  There are really serious concealers, also known as paramedical camouflage that can literally lay down a “new skin” by opaquely blocking out discolorations (even tattoo colors) beneath it.  Concealers greatly help to bring the skin closer to a more flawless looking appearance that looks healthier and radiant to the eye, whether in camera or everyday ambient light.

Concealer is not an alternative to foundation, but as extra help for more smoother looking skin.  Most makeup artists feel it is used most effectively after a foundation is applied; to add that extra spot layer of coverage in certain areas where some discoloration may be still slightly detectable.  Applying it before the foundation application, however, is less helpful because its opaque properties are diminished or mostly absorbed into the foundation layer.  Lighter textured concealers, such as liquids and tube/wand based, are better suited to use on the thinner skinned/ under-eye areas with minimal discolorations, and work really well on dry or mature skin for buildable, natural looking coverage.  Thicker or creamier textured concealers, such as those in sticks and pots, hold the most pigment so they work best for higher opacity needs in dealing with heavier discolorations.  Higher pigmented concealers also offer excellent buildable coverage with less texture-looking results.

Many women do confuse concealers with color corrector products, which are designed for a different function.  Color correction is a method of using opposite color theory to appliquez-l-anti-cerne-1034641specifically neutralize or mute down an unwanted visible color on the skin.  An example of this would be using a yellow or orange corrector on top of a red or blue discoloration in skin to “cancel” it out.  Color correctors are definitely applied first before foundation, and you must be very careful in how you apply them as you can end up exchanging one problem for another.  They very rarely look natural in daylight or camera work, and too much or improperly applied correction may cause an unwanted detectable color result, or a visible grayed out area on the skin.  Concealers deal with discolorations differently by providing a high degree of opaque coverage through skin toned shades, and the result helps build up a smoother looking density of the natural skin tone.  This also helps to correct a discoloration issue simply by the amount of opacity it delivers to create a more even toned complexion.

Keep in mind that concealers cannot hide obvious skin textures or anomalies, such as indentations, deep wrinkles, pock marks, or raised areas of the skin but they are highly effective in hiding discoloration in those areas.  This also helps bring forward a smoother looking overall facial appearance, which visually diminishes the look of unwanted skin textures.  The one thing you don’t want to do is to use a concealer color that is lighter or darker than your normal skin top tone to correct an issue.  In HD cameras and natural daylight, it can be very painfully obvious to the eye, and can actually cause a reversed “racooning” effect in the area.   You can probably try to get away with ½ shade lighter or darker than skin, and depending on how you use it, but be very wary of making the situation more noticeable with this method.  Concealers can certainly be used as highlighters, when paired with a darker contour or shadowing color, to visually bring forward or recede certain areas of the face to enhance features.  Be sure to blend it out very well, so that the result looks like a natural and pleasing “bend” in the overall complexion and not obvious, hard-looking contrived areas.  Concealers also work very well with dual-finish or powder based foundations, but be sure to apply them first UNDER this type of foundation product.  Applying concealer over a powder foundation can cause streaking, and makes the powder layer roll off skin in that area.

In choosing and applying concealer, the makeup artist’s trick is to pick a neutral undertone shade that is in the same top tone color of your skin.  Using a warmer undertone can create a “halo” effect in that area on top of skin, and using a cool tone can gray it out around the edgespro-longwear-concealer-2.  This is especially important to keep in mind in dealing with discolorations in the eye area, especially with hyper-circulation (reddish purple) or hyper-pigmentation (darkness or the “raccoon” effect.)  You want the color and application to balance out the area and not result in heavy, mask-like coverage.  Concealer products are not hard to apply, but choose the method that works best for the end result you are trying to achieve, and with smooth undetectable results.  Lighter textured concealers (like liquids) can be applied with a doe foot wand or the pads of your finger tips to smooth out gently with no visible demarcation lines.  Creamier concealers are best applied with a #10 Taklon brush, which helps to lay down a smooth and even application and also allows you to do organic looking spot applications.  Finish with a super light dusting of neutral powder so that the overall look blends naturally with the foundation layer.

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